Daily BS V2.0

[TrailTamer]

Anything go in here.

GO!

[s0l0ithz]

Has anyone slept in a short bed pickup and what did fit in the back to be off the bed floor?

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[Wingman]

Not a shortbed, but I did build a couple of bunks for the Sierra to get a sleeping platform off the floor and have storage underneath. Just build as low and tight to the wheel well to give yourself as much head room as possible. That was the "tent" for a whole season and worked well enough.

[smichaelR22]

slept in the back seat of the dodge, what memories! 

you thinking for the rausch trip Tom?  you going down solo or with the fam?

[s0l0ithz]

Solo, I slept in the back last trip I went on and a queen air mattress  is too big for my tiny truck. Need to find a shorter air mattress this week. Or sleep in the cab which is not so bad....

[MrMindless]

Don't click on any weird google docs invites you get. it'll compromise your gmail account if you accept it.

[TrailTamer]

Anyone have an idea where I can find some Ospho locally?

[TrailTamer]

Never mind, I just found a different brand Home Depot sells, and seem to be cheaper too.
Klean-Strip
1 gal. Phosphoric Prep and Etch
$15.78

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-gal-Phosphoric-Prep-and-Etch-GKPA30220/100406369

[TrailTamer]

Anyone ever bought molasses in bulk? I'll like to try molasses to remove rust from larger parts (submersed in a 275 gallon tote with it's top cut off, etc.)

[MrMindless]

I've never heard of molasses as a rust remover. Sounds like a sticky mess?

Electrolysis seems simpler?

[TrailTamer]

I've never heard of molasses as a rust remover. Sounds like a sticky mess?

Electrolysis seems simpler?

It's something I want to try. No anodes issues (need to place them accordingly to the rusted parts IIRC)

Post#43
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/phosphoric-acid-rust-removal-210082/index3.html#post1424459

Phosphoric acid is used as a rust converter, and one must brush off "accreted" rust ( scale) first. It effectively "Parkerises" the steel.

 Other Acids convert the rust to soluble salts of iron, and then it can be scrubbed or pressure washed off. The metal must also be thoroughly neutralised , or the acid will induce new rust in contact with the atmosphere.

 The Cheapest, simplest, and easiest Rust removal method ( even scaly rust)

 is MOLASSES ( yes, Sugar Mill Molasses, used as cattle food etc).

 Mix Molasses in a 5-1 dilution in water, dump your part in it, come back in two to three weeks, and the Rust will water wash away, leaving Natural "Grey" iron or steel. Oil immediately after drying.

 WE have done entire Relic Machineguns, Small iron cannon, old Farm tools, even mechanical tools ( Post drill presses etc) by this method and the results are spectacular, down to being able to dismantle an otherwise completely Rusted-Solid MG ( and salvage some working inner parts).

 Of course the drum or bath-tub used has to be out of doors, as the Molasses ferments when diluted, and creates a "head" like an over-fermented Beer.
 And thin leaf springs do get dissolved, so take out any spring steel from what you want to de-rust. ( use a Plastic Drum or an enamelled Bath Tub)

 The process is that the Sugars and organic acids in Molasses, along with further fermentation, convert the Iron Oxide into soluble salts of Iron, which results in a Black sludge over the piece, which can then be washed off with a jet of water (preferable hot) and the part air-dried and then oiled. ( "Raw" Grey Iron surfaces will oxidise (Rust) very quickly in normal air).

 A 4-gallon drum of Molasses at your local Farm store ( Produce merchant) should not cost very much ( we used to get it from the local Sugar mill for a nominal fee, and we supplied the drum).

 The Mixture can be used several times before it is "worn out" by simply adding a small amount of fresh molasses to "recharge" it.

 Then it makes good fertiliser.

[MrMindless]

sounds interesting for sure!